This section will take you from Muktinath back to Pokhara. Actually, this side of the Annapurna trek is also known as “Jomsom” trek, done from the north to the south. So doing the Around Annapurna trek you actually do two treks…
Day 14 – Muktinath – Jarkot – Kagbeni
The part of the trek from Muktinath till Marpha, is really different from the trek in the Marsyangdi side. Here, the climate is relatively dry, and the landscape looks like a desert.
The area on the way from Muktinath to Kagbeni is full of ancient caves, and till you reach Jomsom you’ll be able to see wonderful geological forms around you.
From Muktinath (3800 meters) the trail descends gradaually towards Jarkot, a nice village with interesting houses and lots of green fields in the brown-looking area around. From Jarkot the trail keeps descending, and you can choose between two ways: one goes directly to Jomsom, and the other goes to Kagbeni.
Kagbeni is a place you wouldn’t like to miss!
Located 2800 meters high, Kagbeni is an interesting village, with stone houses and narrow alleys, and a green area of fields lying between the high mountains above. The village is located near the Kali-Gandaki river, and it is the first place you meet this huge river, still flows in a very wide valley at this area.
Wandering in the village and around it is highely recommended!
“Shangri-la” guest house is a good place to sleep, and they have good food.
Beware not to walk north of this village!! It is the border to Mustang area, which is usually closed to tourists and require a very special permition to visit! Fail to do so – and you are inviting an enchanting randes-vous with the local policeman.
Timing – Muktinath – Jarkot – 1 hour. Jarkot – Kagbeni – 2.5 hours.
Day 15 – Kagbeni – Jomsom – Marpha
The way from Kagbeni to Jomsom goes along the Kali-Gandaki river, as most of the trek in the next few days. The geological forms you’ll see on the way around you are really spectacular, and children on the way will offer you to buy black fossiles called “Salligrams”.
Jomsom, located 2700 meters high is a big village. It has a small airport, and so – connected by air to Pokhara and Kathmandu. There are some helpful facilities in this village – a branch of the immigration office, a bank, a local clinic, and lots of shops and guest-houses. Don’t miss the “German Bakery” there – they have sandwiches, cakes, drinks and all kinds of choclates, and it is located on the northern part of the village.
Although it is a comfortable place to stay in, we recommend to keep on and sleep in Marpha – a small and charming village, located 2660 meters high. It contains stone houses built on the mountain above the Kali-Gandaki river, with narrow streets paved with flat stones. There are few lovely guest houses there, with excellent food – our recommended one will be “Neeru” guest-house – don’t miss their cakes!
There’s also a small post-office and some good shops in this village, and it is a really nice place to rest for more than one day.
Timing – Kagbeni – Jomsom – 2.5 hours. Jomsom – Marpha – 2 hours.
Day 16 – Marpha – Tukuche – Koketanti – Kalopani – Ghasa
From Marpha continue to Tukuche, a village located 2590 meters high. It is possible to sleep there, but we suggest going on. Koketanti is a small place you’ll reach, beautifully located in a small valley created by the Kali-Gandaki, under he huge mountains above. The area is full of trees and other plantation, and this small place is calm and really cute. There’s a guest house in which you can sleep there.
After Koketanti you’ll get to Kalopani – another beautiful village with amazing panoramic view of the snowy mountains all around – Niligri and Annapurna I in the east, and Dhaulagiri (8167 meters) and Tukuche peak (6920 meters) on the east. You can sleep in Kalopani or continue to Ghasa, located 2040 meters high, surrounded by heavy plantaition and fields. There are some guest houses in Ghasa.
Timing – Marpha – Tukuche – 2 hours. Tukuche – Koketanti – 2 hours. Koketanti – Kalopani -1 hour.
Kalopani – Ghasa – 2 hours.
Day 17 – Ghasa – Tatopani
From Ghasa to Tatopani is quite a serious descend – from 2040 meters to 1200 meters.
On the way you pass Rupse – a village with spectacular waterfalls. There is a nice place to eat breakfast and cakes nearby. After Rupse you’ll pass through Dana, another small village you can sleep in. But – the best place to reach in that area is Tatopani. It has wonderful hot springs, some really good guest houses, and good food. It is a good place to rest and relax for more than one day.
In “Dhaulagiri” guest house there’s an amazing food! Try their pizza, spaghetti, toasts, and cakes.
Timing – Ghasa – Rupse – 2.5 hours. Rupse – Tatopani – 3 hours.
Day 18 – Tatopani – Shika
From Tatopani there are several ways to end the trek.
You can keep walking along the Kali-Gandaki river through Beni till Baglung – and meet the road there.
The better way is to continue through Ghorepani – an amazing area with great landscapes and views.
The way from Tatopani to Ghorepani is quite difficult – a climb of 1600 meters!
Therefore it is advisable to make a break in the middle – in Shika – another charming village in a beautiful area of green fields and terraces – all on high mountains. Shika is located 1920 meters high.
When you start climbing to Shika you actually leave the Kali-Gandaki river behind, and go up to the mountains. The view of the high mountains around is amazing, and it is really worth getting up in the morning in Shika – and see the majestic look of the Dhaulagiri in the horizon.
“Purnima” guest-house is a good place to sleep in Shika.
Timing – Tatopani – Shika – 2.5 hours.
Day 19 – Shika – Chitre – Ghorepani
From Shika you continue to climb to Ghorepani – located 2850 meters high.
Ghorepani is quite a popular place in this area, because many tourists get there just to climb to the near peak – The Poon hill – located 3100 meters high and offers a great panoramic view of all the Annapurna region and the Himalayas as a whole.
The view from Poon hill is really amazing, on condition you get there on a non-cloudy day…
There are plenty of guesthouses and shops in Ghorepani. “Snowland” Guest house is highly recommended.
Timing – Shika – Chitre – 2 hours. Chitre – Ghorepani – 2 hours.
Day 20 – Ghorepani (Poon-hill) – Tadapani – Ghandrunk
After you rest in Ghorepani and enjoy the view from Poon-hill, there are again – two ways to end the trek.
One is to continue south through Bhurungdi Khola strait to Lumle, and end the trek on the road there.
The other way (and of course – the recommended one) is to go through Tadapani and Ghandrunk.
This is the “Rhododendrons trail”. The Rhododendron is a tree that blooms in beautiful big flowers – red, pink and white. The area on the way between Ghorepani and Tadapani is full of beautiful Rhododendrons.
The area as a whole is beautiful – full of thick plantation, and tiny rivers.
Tadapani (2950 meters) is a possible place to stop for the night – with nice guest houses and amazing view around.
From Tadapani to Ghandrunk you walk in a path through a thick wood that looks like a jungle!
Ghandrunk lies on the mountain above Modi khola river. If you walk up this river you reach the Annapurna sancuary and the base-camp for the climbers to the Annapurna.
Ghandrunk is a wonderful village. Located at 2000 meters, it has beautiful close-up views of Annapurna south, Machhapuchhre and Himalchuli mountains. There are good guest-houses in the village, “Milan” guest house is highly recommended. It is a good place to rest and enjoy the calm atmosphere of the Nepali mountains just before getting back to Pokhara.
You can decide whether you like to continue to trek more – up the Modi Khola to the Annapurna base-camp, or down the Modi Khola towards the end of the trek.
Timing – Ghorepani – Tadapani – 3.5 hours. Tadapani – Ghandrunk – 4 hours.
Day 21 – Ghandrunk – Birethanti – Lumle – Pokhara
This is the last day of the trek… you descend from Ghandrunk towards Birethanti, along the ridge above Modi khola. You pass through nice villages and lots of fields with terraces. From Birethanti it is not far till Lumle – the village that is connected by a road, where some taxi drivers will wait to take you towards Pokhara…
Timing – Ghandrunk – Birethanti – 3.5 hours. Birethanti – Lumle – 1 hour.
By taxi from Lumle to Pokhara – 1 hour.
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