General

After we decided to choose Manaslu Circuit as our main trekking destination for the autumn 2011 trip to Nepal, it was obvious we shall also go to Tsum Valley. The area was opened for tourism only in 2008, and visiting such a pristine area which is not yet affected by tourism oriented development appealed to us.

Our visit to Tsum Valley took place between September 27^th and October 5^th 2011. We had a great time in Tsum Valley, and due to the scarce information about the area would like to share what we know.

Logistics

Permits and entry fees

Tsum Valley is a restricted area, meaning a trekking permit should be issued by a registered trekking agency and a guide should be accompanied to the travelers. A minimum of 2 travelers is needed for a group.

Prices:
Permit price for Tsum Valley is 35$ for 8 days.
Since the access to Tsum Valley is through the Manaslu region, a permit for Manaslu is needed as well at a cost of 10$ per day.
In addition, there are conservation area fees needed to be paid:
MCAP (Manaslu Conservation Area Project) fee of 2000 Nepali Rupees (~27$).
If you go to Tsum Valley and then continue to circle Manaslu you will alsneed to pay ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) fee of 2000 Nepali Rupees (~27$), as the Manaslu Circuit ends in the Annapurna region.

Tea House/Home Stay vs. Full Camping trek

The Tsum Valley trek can be done as Home Stay / Tea House trek, meaning you don’t have to carry your own accommodation facilities (i.e. tent) or bring any catering services with you. This has some major pros:

1.  Trek logistics are quite easy.
2. Consumption of accommodation and eating services from the locals meaning paying directly to them and contributing to local economy.
3. Better interaction and experience with locals.

But there are some cons:

1. A compromise on food quality and quantity – While some travelers may enjoy local food (i.e. mainly Dal-Bhat and Tsampa) others may find it not satisfactory / enough for such a trek.
2. A compromise on accommodation conditions – In Tsum Valley, accommodation is available mainly within premises of locals’ houses. This means that sometimes you may sleep in a shop entrance, share your room with a monk, or get up in the morning with tiny red dots on your legs…

The situation in Tsum valley can get tight if more than two tourist couples are arriving to the same village at the same day, since locals are still not ready to cater more than a few travelers together. Having said that, there is a strange paradox: The less touristy is the place, the more awkward the site of camping trek convoys is. We have seen a “group” of 2 travelers in Tsum valley accompanied by a 7 porters and a guide convoy, which seems in a way like an “elephant in a porcelain shop”.

As we decided to move “light” and preferred to support local communities as much as we can, we decided to do the trek with minimum staff. To our request, the trekking company provided us with a guide cum porter. We ended up being accompanied by a porter who had some English knowledge but lacked vital practical information, not to mention knowledge about the area. Therefore our recommendation is to hire a guide and make sure he recently visited the relevant trekking areas. It is advised to use the help of the “Tsum Welfare Committee” in organizing guide and porter.

Some prices:

• A Guide price is 30-40$ per day.
• A Guide cum Porter price is 20-30$ per day.
• A Porter price is 10-20$ per day.

Expenses during the trek – Lodging and Food

Expenses for lodging and food in Tsum Valley are currently low relatively to what you pay in lodges in Manaslu Circuit Trek. Generally we paid about 10$ per day per person in Tsum Valley. This is based on home stay accommodation with basic local food such as Dal Bhat and Tsampa, Chapatis, tea and noodle soup.

How Many Days?

Our recommendation is to have at least 7 full days in Tsum Valley, meaning 7 days from Lokpa (the “Entry” village) to Lokpa.

Our sleeping places where: (Lokpa), Tsumling, Chhokang Paro, Nile, Nakyu, Gumba Lungdang, Domje, Lokpa

 General description of Tsum Valley

Tsum Valley is stretched along the Syar Khola. Its lower part joins the Budhi Gandaki Valley north of Philim. Its upper part reaches north towards the Nepal-Tibet border.

The 4000 people inhabiting the valley belong to an indigenous ethnic group known as “Tsumbas”. They maintain a Tibetan – Buddhist way of life, and due to the geographical characteristics of the area, their bonds with Tibet are in some aspects stronger than with Nepal. The Tsum Walfare Committee (“TWC”) is an NGO which was founded in order to promote the welfare interests of Tsum Valley people. Part of its activities is to promote tourism to the area and assisting visitors in arranging a trek to the area.

 Geographically Tsum Valley can be divided to 5 sections

1. The “Entrance” – from the branching from Budhi Gandaki Valley through the village of Lokpa till the tea house in Gadhkhola. Altitudes 1800 to 2100 meters.
2. The “Lower” part – that includes the villages of Tsumling and Ripche up to Domje and Gho. Altitudes 2300 to 2500 meters.
3. The “Upper” part – the relatively wide and flat area of the valley, from the village of Chhokung Paro till the villages of Nile and Chhule. Altitudes 3000 to 3400 meters.
4. Mu Gompa area – where the Syar Khola becomes narrow and steep, and Mu Gompa is located. Altitudes 3400 to 3700 meters.
5. The Wilderness – the mountains, valleys and passes north of Mu Gompa, where no settlements exist. It is a mountain area and domain of convoys trading with Tibet. Altitudes 3700 to 5100 meters.

 Another section which is relevant to this trek is the branch from Domje towards Ganesh Himal range, Torogumba Glacier and Gumba Lungdang. This is actually the domain of Ganesh Himal Trek, but many trekkers add at least one day to visit the Gompa at Gumba Lungdang and enjoy Ganesh Himal views.

 Detailed description of each section

Tsum Valley is very interesting to be explored on your own pace. Therefore, instead of suggesting a day by day itinerary, we shall suggest the number of days recommended for each section.

Arrival to Tsum Valley: to Lokpa

Lokpa (2240m) is a convenient starting point for the Tsum Valley trek. It is located one and a half hours climb from the trail branch to Tsum Valley from the main Manaslu trail. We walked to Lokpa on a single day from Jagat. The village of Lokpa is located high above the trail. On the trail itself there is one lodge with 2 rooms, each one with 4 beds. Food was very good.

 The “Entrance” to “Lower” Tsum Valley (one day)

From Lokpa the trail goes through a thick forest down, up and down again to the lonely tea house at GadhKhola. It takes half a day to reach this tea house, where you can have a basic meal but no accommodation facilities.

From here the trail branches and you can continue to the “Lower” part in two trails: One goes directly up to the village of Ripche. The other crosses the Syar Khola on a suspension bridge and climbs to Tsumling (also spelled Chumling). We recommend to proceed to Tsumling, and return via Ripche.

When you climb to Tsumling (2380m) the trail splits – go left to reach the old village center, or right to get quickly to Tsumling family lodge. It is recommended to go directly to the lodge, settle down, and then go for a tour in the village. In total, the walk from Lokpa to Tsumling is an easy walk day.

On your way back from Domje, it is highly recommended to take the trail through Ripche, on the southern side of the Syar Khola. The trail climbs gradually from Domje to Ripche through the lovely forest. The village of Ripche is located along a small plateau high above the Syar Khola, with dramatic views to the surrounding mountains. It is highly recommended to walk up to the old Gompa for a view of the village, surrounding fields and mountains. We could not trace the home stay which is supposed to exist in Ripche.

 “Lower” Tsum Valley to “Upper” Tsum Valley (one day)

The trail from Tsumling continues east conveniently above the Syar Khola. It gets to Rainjam in less than 2 hours, where you can get a meal and very simple accommodation. The trail then crosses the Sarpu Khola on a suspension bridge and climbs up. The picturesque village of Gho is reached after less than half an hour. From Gho the trail continues to climb, and reaches the first village of Upper Tsum Valley, Chhokung Paro (3030m), after almost 3 hours.

 “Upper” Tsum Valley (at least two days)

“Upper” Tsum Valley is interesting to explore. It is relatively wide, with several settlements, abundance of cultivated agricultural land, spiritual places and hospitable residents. Since you go and return through the valley, it is recommended to allow at least two days for this part. When you go up, it is recommended to stay at the western side of the river. As mentioned before, Chhokung Paro is recommended as a first station in “Upper” Tsum Valley. There is a convenient Home Stay in a relatively large room for guests and delicious local meals. Children of the village will be happy to show you around.

Pass the village of Nakyu and reach Lamagaon. After the village you can visit the Milarepa Piren Phu cave. It is believed that a footprint located in the cave actually belongs to the famous Milarepa. The climb to the cave which is located on the cliff takes about an hour, and the views to the valley and surrounding mountains is spectacular. Entrance fee to the cave is 300 Rupees per person which are dedicated to its preservation. The trail then goes through the villages of Phurbe and Pangdun and reaches the neighboring villages of Chhule and Nile.

It takes a day walk to reach Nile from Chhokung Paro. In Nile accommodation is available at one family house. We were 4 travelers there. Two of us shared a room with a monk, and the other two slept in the entrance of the family store…

It is highly recommended to climb to Chhule Gompa or to the hills above Nile, to get a bird-eye view of the twin villages and surrounding scenery.

Going back from Chhule – Nile, it is advised to continue on the east side of the river after passing Phurbe. It is an easy walk through flat Lar, followed by a visit to Rachen Gompa – a large monastery for nuns. Continuing back south it is recommended to sleep in the home stay at the village of Nakyu. The family will open a very nice tent for you in their yard and cook delicious food.

 Mu Gompa (at least half a day)

Mu Gompa is located dramatically above the Syar Khola, less than 2 hours walk from the village of Nile. The atmosphere in this remote location is highly inspiring and the monks are hospitable. You can stay overnight in the Gompa, and make short walks to the ridges above it if weather permits and visibility is clear. It is possible to walk from Nile to Mu Gompa for a short visit, and then go back to Nakyu / Chhokung Paro on the same day, but it is recommended to allow at least a full day for exploration of Mu Gompa and its surroundings starting from Nile.

The Wilderness

If you like to enjoy pure mountain environment, this area is for you. But as this area has no settlements, you will need to be self supported with tent and catering services in order to pass a night out there. In two days you can camp at Bhajyo, make a day trip to the Nepal-Tibet border at Nueladajyen Bhanjyang at 5093 meters and return to Mu Gompa. Longer trips include a circular camping trip that goes through the mountain scenery in Kalung, Chhekya, Dhaldang, Yamdro, Bhajyo and back to Mu Gompa. This will add several days to your itinerary. Note that if you are keen on visiting the Nepal-Tibet border, and continue to the Manaslu Circuit anyway, you can make a day trip to another border point starting from Samdo, without the need to carry camping equipment.

 Gumba Lungdang and Ganesh Himal Base Camp (at least one day)

A highly recommended trip is a side trip to Gumba Lungdang and Ganesh Himal Base Camp. The trail starts from the village of Domje. It is recommended to do this trip on the way back from “Upper” Tsum Valley. From Nakyu or Chhokung Paro you can descend to Gho in 2-3 hours, continue to Domje via a narrow beautiful trail, have lunch in Domje before you start the long 3-4 hours climb to Gumba Lungdang.

The trail from Domje to the Gompa is an attraction of its own – its first part zigzags steeply and then levels a bit as it goes high above the Langdang Khola on an exposed slope towards the Gompa.

Visiting the Gompa is a touching experience. The Nuns and teachers at the Gompa are most welcoming. Meals are available in the Gompa kitchen, and usually your guides will join the effort preparing them. The nuns will find you a place to sleep somewhere in the Gompa premises. We were offered the entrance to the Prayer Hall as a sleeping place, and had one of the best sleeps we had during the trek…

The mountain scenery from the Gompa is truly spectacular, with Ganesh Himal peak dominating the view.

 There are two recommended day trips from the Gompa:

Ganesh Himal Base Camp – This is the more popular day trip by visitors. It goes through the forest up the Langdang Khola towards the Torogumba glacier and the Ganesh Himal Base Camp.

Langdang Danda View Point – We did not have time to do it, but I feel it has a potential to be the “Poon Hill” of this area. There is a narrow trail that goes high up above Gumba Lungdang to the Langdang Danda ridge. This ridge separates between Upper Tsum Valley and the Ganesh Himal Valley at an altitude of over 4000 meters. Views from the ridge must be outstanding. Locals claim you can get to the ridge in 2-3 hours from Gumba Lungdang (…and then continue to Chhokung Paro in another 5-7 hours of steep descend). We know that the Tsum Welfare Committee is planning to promote a “shortcut” trail from Tsum Valley to Gumba Lungdang probably through this demanding trail. In any case it is highly recommended to take a local guide with you if you attempt to visit the ridge as a day trip.

 Services along the trek

Telecommunications

In most villages along the trek you can find a satellite or cellular based phone for making phone calls to anywhere in the world. The satellite phones are highly reliable as they work independently based on solar power. Price for an international call is 1-2$ per minute. Internet service is not available.

Electricity

In many villages 220v electricity is available thanks to local micro hydro plants. Light and power sockets are available, although in some places you will be asked to pay a bit to charge your batteries. Villages with 220v electricity include: Tsumling, Chhokung Paro, Lamagaon, Nile. Villages without 220v electricity usually have led lights charged by solar panels.