The Shikoku Pilgrimage, known as “Shikoku Henro” or “Shikoku Junrei” is a popular pilgrimage route covering 88 temples in Shikoku island, Japan. The temples are associated with the Buddhist monk Kōbō Daishi (“Kūkai”). Visiting all temples requires walking about 1200 kilometers. It is a true spiritual journey, in which beautiful natural scenery, inspiring temples located in exotic locations and lovely towns and rural areas blend into a holistic experience.
Although there is always an added value to a long continuous trek, many people choose to do the pilgrimage in separate sections, as there is no obligation to visit the temples in a certain order. As I learned, even visiting temples by day hikes, is an unforgettable experience, and a wonderful way to explore Japan’s natural, rural and spiritual realm.
Here are three suggested day hike itineraries, focusing on the North-Eastern areas of Shikoku island, with the cities of Takamtsu and Tokushima serving as bases. I only include here a few “promotional” photos. At the end of the post there are links to full galleries of the hikes.
Day hikes from Takamatsu
Takamatsu is a good starting point for visiting Shikoku island and hiking along the Shikoku Henro. It is easily accessible from the main island by low cost flights from Tokyo or by train via Okayama.
Visiting Temples 84 (Yashima-ji) – 85 (Yakuri-ji)
A very nice introductory hike visiting two hilly temples located on the north-eastern part of Takamatsu. Accessible using the Kotoden-Shido local train Line.Note that the main station on city center is Kawaramachi station.
Starting point: Katamoto train station (Kotoden-Shido Line).
Ending point: Shioya train station (Kotoden-Shido Line).
A welcoming sight
Yashima-ji
A nice statues workshop on the outskirts of town, on the way to temple 85
Yakuri-ji is a surprising temple. Built on the slope, as you climb further you discover additional halls
Ending by the shore is a nice contrast to the forested ridge
Visiting Temples 80 (Sanuki Kokubun-ji) – 81 (Shiromine-ji) – 82 (Negoro-ji)
A long full day hike visiting three beautiful temples on the south-western outskirts of Takamatsu. Accessible using the Yosan line local train from Takamatsu main train station. Temple 80 is on the plain not far from the train station, while the two others are located high up on the ridge.
Starting point: Kokubu train station (Yosan Line).
Ending point: Kinashi train station (Yosan Line).
Sights in Sanuki Kokubun-ji
A typical rural house
Shiromine-ji
A meaningful guard on Negoro-ji
Negoro-ji beautiful lanterns
Lots of Bonsai plantations along the end of this day hike
Before / After Takamatsu
- Naoshima Island with its modern art museums, architecture and sculptures – easily accessible by boat from Takamatsu.
- Iya valley – a beautiful creek on a charming mountainous rural area – easily accessible by train + buses from Takamatsu.
Day hikes from Tokushima
Tokushima is another fine base for the Shikoku Henro. You can explore the starting and ending parts of the Shikoku Henro, many of them on the plain, as well as climb to visit temples located high up on the mountains. I decided to choose the uphill option…
Visiting Temples 20 (Kakurin-ji) – 21 (Tairyū-ji)
A long full day hike with decent ascends and decends visiting two charming temples. This hike provides long stretches of enchanting forests, which together with the pace of the physical effort and the harmony of the temples, easily takes you into a meditative state of mind…
These temples are located a bit far from Tokushima, and require a bus ride which can take more than an hour each direction. So start early. A Tokushima two day public transport pass is useful. From temple 21 there is a cable car going down towards Wajiki where you can catch the bus. Tip: Walk a few minutes further from temple 21 and the cable car station, to view Kobo Daishi’s statue on the cliff.
Starting Point: Ikuna bus station.
Ending Point: Wajiki-Higashi bus station.
Temples 20-21 on a rainy day…
Before / After Tokushima:
- Wakayama – a beautiful peninsula back on the main island, accessible by ferry from Tokushima. Many go to visit Koyasan (Mount Koya) – the site of Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum, which is regarded the actual start and end point of the Shikoku Henro.
- Osaka / Kyoto – easily accessible by bus/train from Tokushima.
The few days option
If you can spare a few days for your visit, consider doing at least a two days hike, so you can enjoy sleeping along the route. Many options are available – pilgrims hostels, hotels, family inns, and more.
Tips
- Learn the train and bus schedule before you go.
- Learn the pilgrimage and temples etiquette.
- Book accommodation in advance. the hosts will usually ask you for your estimated time of arrival. Please respect them and arrive during the estimated time.
- Carry minimum stuff in a small backpack. Leave enough space for your garbage.
- Use a walking stick.
- Take a water bottle with you, especially in sunny days.
- Avoid arriving during “Golden Week” annual vacation.
- Finding your way along the route is quite easy. The trail is marked with various signs and illustrations, and online maps are available as well. You mainly need to know how to get to the starting point and from the ending point you choose. Having your smartphone with a backup map will be helpful if you are uncertain about the way.
Useful resources
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shikoku_Pilgrimage
https://www.walking-henro.net/
http://walkingmylife.weebly.com/
https://randomwire.com/japan/shikoku/
http://wwwtb.mlit.go.jp/shikoku/88navi/en/guide/
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